Cape Brett

During her research for our trip across the northland region of New Zealand, Phoebe stumbled across Cape Brett - a historic lighthouse on the eastern coast. After a little more digging, we discovered that there are only two ways to reach Cape Brett: via boat or foot. No roads lead out to the end point of the peninsula. Once we knew this, we had no doubts about how, or if, we would be undertaking this remote and truly special journey. And so, we set out planning for our challenging endeavour...

The Department of Conservation (DOC) describes the hike as an advanced tramping track, requiring a high degree of fitness and experience. The track is 16.3km in length and undulating, in total covering more than 1000m elevation. DOC suggests allowing 8 hours of daylight to complete the track, and also recommends staying at the old settlement overnight prior to completing the return journey. All persons hiking the trail take their safety into their own hands, and must be self-sufficient, carrying enough food and water for the outward and return journey. As there was no clean water along the trail, we purchased a portable water filtration system prior to our hike, and used the stream water as our source (the tap water in the hut was unfortunately sea water). See the website for more details on the track if you are interested 😀.

Day one (13th Nov)

We started the day early, as we had to drive from Puiri bay to the start of the track. On arrival, we parked Geraldine in someone's front garden for a small charge, and were soon on our way along the trail. Our spitits were high due to excitement, and this high would continue for much of the day! The track did not start easy, as soon as we joined it we started a steep climb to the peak of Pukehuia Hill, but were rewarded with our first stunning view. From this point on the undulating nature of the track became clear to us, for every descent we would shortly after start to climb once more. At the peak of one of these hills, we were passed by a fellow hiker, who, we discovered, would be staying at the hut with us at the end of the journey! We were also briefly joined, for a special and memorable moment, by a beautiful fantail that fluttered among us both with a delicate grace.

Near to the end of the track, we took a short diversion that descended to sea-level at Deepwater cove. Once there, we found our new hiking friend enjoying the view, as well as a few other hikers taking a break to swim in the sea-water. Phoebe was eager to get in, and so we were both soon in the water taking a swim to cool off in the heat. After I spotted a jellyfish that made us both anxious, we headed back to dry land to, only discover more that had sadly washed ashore 😢.

After rejoining the Cape Brett track, we found it becoming steeper, narrower, and more dangerous. A scramble up would only lead to another back down. At some points the track lay along the peak of the cliff ridgeline, with a sharp drop either side. Fatigue and muscle ache soon hit us both, and the difficulty of the track exacerbated this. We stuck together and supported one another, and soon enough we found outselves at the lighthouse and its accompanying hut, ready to seek shelter. On arrival, we enjoyed a highly nutrious meal (noodles😂) and a chat with some of the twenty or so other hikers staying at the hut. The hut was little to shout about, basic and unclean, but a welcome shelter. However, we eagerly went to sleep in our uncomfortable bunk bed, ready for rest.

Day two (14th Nov)

The sunrise was unmissable at this location. The clouds gently obscured a direct view, but added colour and texture to the skyline as the sun painted the peak of the peninsula around us with an orange glow. Phoebe added to the magic with a perfect impression of a seagull (of which there was a crazy amount)... video at the bottom!

Our fresh legs took us along the difficult scrambling sections of the path more quickly than the prior day. We scaled them more eagerly than the day before, anxious to reach the stream a short distance down the trail. Once there we put our portable filter to good use and satisfyingly gulped water, having rationed it for the previous 12 hours! Progress after this was slower, our legs tired and aching. Eventually we reached our goal spot, and enjoyed a well-deserved lunch. The same views were pleasantly present on the return journey, though with less pleasant weather. A short distance from the end, we once more stumbled upon our hiking ally, and exchanged food and stories during a short break together.

The sight of a tarmac road was a blessing, and Phoebe swapped to the crocs she had been carrying the entire time to walk the final half mile. The welcome sight of Geraldine soon came into view, and once there we climbed aboard to make the journey to our next camping spot quickly, before the weariness took hold! Phoebe no longer felt human so after moaning, napping, being fed and given a hot water bottle she began to feel slightly less broken.